![]() ![]() Ensure that the motors wires are not too tight, that they are not pinched by standoffs, and that there are no sharp CF (Carbon Fiber) edges that may compromise the integrity of the wire insulation.Check that wiring is clean, the insulation is free from cuts, marks or scratches, and that there are no obvious soldering problems.Make sure that all the required screws are present.Just because “it flew fine last time”, that doesn’t mean that nothing has been vibrated loose! Also check the nylon standoffs used in the stack. Check motor grub and mounting screws, and all the nuts, bolts and standoffs that keep the frame together. Screws - Make sure that all screws are in place and tightened, any that have loosened, check, remove and re-apply thread locker.Make sure that the prop shaft is unbent and that the propeller blades turn “true” and remain level. Motors - Make sure that your motors are clean, that there is no sand or grit between the stator and rotor magnets.Before fitting, give your props a visual check for damage and make sure they are unbent. Balance your props before you get to the field, stringing or bagging CW and CCW props together makes it easy to find the direction you require. Propellers - I recommend that you don’t attach your props until you are ready to fly, props that are attached to your model can bend or break more easily in transport.This is the preflight checklist for models that are already in service Any crashes while the nuts, bolts & screws securing the frame are loose will put additional strain on the mounts and could damage the CF making the frame unflyable. While an Alu standoff is unlikely to break, you may experience a stripped thread which means your frame might not hold together properly. Standoffs - Alu standoffs are unlikely to break, as are the nylon ones used in the stack, however if one of the nylon standoffs does break, then your FC will probably experience a lot of vibration which will affect flight performance.If you quadcopter is designed with removable arms, it is a good idea to keep one or 2 spare as this is the most likely part of your frame to suffer damage. Not exactly a spare part, but you might not be able to fit your spares in the field without it! A battery or gas powered soldering iron is the perfect tool for field repairs, and don’t forget a small amount of solder.Another annoying $5 part that can keep you grounded. Flying proximity puts your camera right in the firing line when you misjudge a gap. Lenses for your FPV camera / spare FPV camera.Electrical / Insulation tape, cable ties / Zip ties & rubber bands.The battery is the single heaviest component on your quad, given the high “G’s” your craft experiences in a crash, it is not uncommon for battery straps to break. Having a spare VTX might seem like a “prepper’s” overkill, but if your VTX antenna is pulled from the socket in a crash, this can cause the VTX to overheat and burn out, if the battery is not disconnected fast enough.Antennas are usually quite exposed and as such can be vulnerable in a crash.If you use individual ESC’s it helps to have a spare because they can fail. Whatever, it’s best to order spare motors from the same batch. Replacing motors after a time can mean that there have been minor design revisions or different tolerances in the copper. If you can afford it, buy a spare motor whenever you order a set. ![]()
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